Winemaker’s Dinner at Saratoga’s charming Sent Sovi

Saratoga’s charming Sent Sovi restaurant hosts a winemaker dinner practically every month, with most held in the main dining room. But now and then, Chef-Proprietor Josiah Slone will host one in the intimate private cellar room, which seats only a dozen people around one large square table, making for a very memorable experience.

Recently, I had the pleasure of attending such a wine dinner as a guest of the restaurant. The $135, five-course, five-wine dinner showcased one of Slone’s all-time favorite wineries, Varner , a boutique winery in Portola Valley that has attracted the accolades of the one and only Robert Parker, who awarded its 2008 Varner Chardonnay Bee Block an impressive 97 points.

Both Chef Slone and his wife have long been fans of the wines produced by Bob Varner and his brother Jim. They have visited the winery half a dozen times and joke that they often have to restrain themselves from carrying nothing but Varner wines on the restaurant’s wine list. It’s easy to see why when you taste these balanced, long-finishing Chardonnays and smooth, silky Pinot Noirs.

One of the great advantages of attending one of these smaller winery dinners is that you get the chance to really converse with the winemaker, not just upon your arrival when you’re introduced, but all through the meal. Bob Varner, who studied biology at the University of California at Davis, can explain any technical aspect of wine-making, and why he believes doing as little as possible to the grapes is always best.

The evening started with passed canapés that included pate smeared with a sweet-tangy quince mustard, and just-fried Meyer lemon-goat cheese beignets.

After sitting down, the first course arrived – a refreshing cured artic char with the zing of preserved Meyer lemons from the chef’s backyard tree. That was followed by what was one of the juiciest white meat chicken dishes I’d had in a long time. Cooked “sous vide’’ to keep the bird moist, the chicken was accompanied by caramelized fennel and a dice of sweet, spicy pears.

Braised monkfish followed, cooked with Herbes de Provence, bacon and red wine until it all reduced to form a sticky, thick glaze. Next, “flattened’’ roast duck that was reminiscent in texture and taste of Chinese barbecue spareribs with a sweet, peppery bite from harissa.

Dessert was apple tarte tatin made with Granny Smith and Pink Lady apples that would have been perfect had it been served warm, rather than chilled. But that’s a forgivable lapse, given how tiny the kitchen – and oven space – is here.

Varner wines also are available on the regular wine list, by the bottle, as well as by the glass. In fact, Sent Sovi is one of the few South Bay restaurants that regularly pours Varner. Slone is confident you’ll enjoy these wines as much as he does. And if you do, he’ll even offer to let you buy a case and pick it up at his restaurant, rather than incurring shipping costs if you ordered it directly from the winery instead. How’s that for service?

By Carolyn Jung (FoodGal.com)